Time to turn all your hard effort into a beautiful cuff you can wear or share.
Release the tension on your loom by turning the wing nuts clock wise.
Cut the string on the right side of the loom.
Remove the warping bar.
Lay your piece flat and admire it!
Trim the loops at either end leaving at least four inches so you can tie overhand knots (the are tricky to tie when too short).
Place a heavy object on one end of your piece to get ready to tie overhand knots. We happened to have this handy empty water glass nearby.
Tie the first half of a square knot with two warp ends (the first step when tying your shoe laces).
Pull it snuggly against edge of piece, but not so tight that you history the edge.
Tie an overhand knot. Do this by making a loop with the two warp threads and then sticking the end through the loop.
Before you tighten that knot, stick a needle in it and guide it to the base of the weaving. This will allow you to land that knot in exactly the right spot.
Do the same with the warp ends on the opposite side to keep the header from falling out.
Tie off all the other warp threads. Since you have an odd number, one of those bunches will contain three warp threads. Trim the ends to about a third to a half of an inch.
All neat and pretty and ready to be tucked under.
Trim the weft threads on the back of the piece. You want them out of the way but not so short that they wander through to the front of the piece. However, you will be using glue to keep them from going astray.
This is how the back of your piece should look. How many times have people told you the back of your work looks really cool? I just gave a friend of mine her wedding tapestry and she saw the back first and was thrilled. She was more thrilled when she turned it around to the front but said: I was even happy when I saw the back!
Wrap your woven piece around the cuff to see how much extra you have on the ends. You will be folding the knots and the header to the back of the piece. You want only the actual weaving to show on the edges. You need enough so that extends beyond the end of the cuff by about a quarter of a inch.
Whip out your cute little tube of glue and place a thin line of it on the back of the header.
Fold the header toward the back of the weaving. You might want to put a weight on it once you’ve done the other header while the glue sets.
Place your woven piece on the ultra-suede and cut the ultra-suede so it is the same size as the weaving.
I used chalk to trace the piece to make it easier to cut.
And then I retraced the line using a ruler to make it straight.
Place the tapestry piece and ultra-suede together to make sure they are the same size.
Next glue down your stray weft ends, pushing them toward the middle of the piece so that the don’t get in the way when you are attaching it to the cuff.
Place the ta
Place the tapestry on the cuff. The glue is also intended to keep the tapestry attached to the cuff while you sew it to the ultra-suede.
Put dabs of glue on the ultra-suede.
Place the ultra-suede on the inside of the cuff.
Trim the ends of the ultra-suede to so that it is the same length as the tapestry.
Thread some C-Lon thread into a needle. Bury the end knot between the tapestry and the cuff and start sewing the ultra-suede and tapestry together.
This is what that should look like! At this point you can call it a day. Your stitches might be so neat that you don’t want to cover them with beads. It’s your choice. But next I will show you how to add a bead edge.
Start a new thread. String three 11/0 beads and start sewing around the seams with the beads to make the edges pretty.
This is how your beautiful cuff should look!
We hope you had a blast making this tapestry/bead cuff and will make a bunch more in the future.
What was your favorite part? What part did you like least? Some people don’t like the finishing. I like all the parts but only when I am in the mood. Sometimes I get anxious when I am weaving the piece because I can’t wait to finish it. Other times I don’t want to stop weaving. How about you?