Weave-Along Week Three: Weft Interlock

Time for some weft interlock.
Using some scrap yarn, divide your warps into roughly four evenly spaced sections.
Insert your four wefts going in the same direction, from left to right.  Then head back to the right starting with the weft on the right.  When you weave the second weft, catch it around the first weft and weave.  Do this with the following two wefts.  Essentially, the wefts, where they meet, loop around one another.  The line between the wefts will be in between warps making this very different from warp interlock, where you wrap your weft around the same warp.  With weft interlock, which is frequently used in Navajo technique, there is less building up of higher weft areas where they interlock making it a better technique for building up straight lines.  The best technique is obviously slit technique where there is no build up, but then you have those pesky slits to sew up.
Next weave back from right to left.  Your wefts are already caught around one another so you are just weaving back.
The next step is to weave from left to right, catching the wefts with one another until you get to the right side of the weaving.
Continue this process with the next wefts.   Weave until you’ve built up about half an inch.
End your wefts except for the far right one.  Weave that back to the left slightly and replace it with two silk wefts.

Add two silk wefts and weave for a bit.  Then replace with single silk weft.

Add a row of beads.

Weave a the silk weft.

For a bit!

Add another color of single silk weft.  Weave for another bit and then add another row of beads.

Continue with some single silk weft.

Add some railroad yarn to the silk weft.

Weave a bunch of it.

Add some single silk weft.  The double it up.

Weave some doubled silk weft.

Change it up a bit by replacing one silk weft with a new color.  Play!

Play with some of these techniques (maybe try those fun squares again) until you’ve woven another four inches!

Silk Purse Weave-Along Week 2 (Weave-Along 7)

If you have a bottom spring kit, as I do here, start weaving your header.  If you don’t have a bottom spring kit, cut a thread three times the width of your loom.  Engage the shedding device, weave it to the threaded bar, wrap it around the threaded bar, change the she and weave it back to the other threaded rod.  Tie the two ends tightly around the threaded bar.  This will serve as a base for starting your weaving.  Make sure the two threads make a straight line.  Arrange the warps so that they are evening spaced at ten ends per inch.   Then begin weaving a header.
Two weave a header:  cut a manageable length of warp thread and weave it back and forth for about a third of an inch.  This header will be folded over to the back of your weaving when you finish your piece.  Be mindful to not pull too tightly at the sides of your weaving but also to not leave loops at the edges.   Beat it down with a tapestry beater or, if you don’t own one  a kitchen fork.
End your header about six warps in and begin a weft of just silk where the header ends.  Remember, you always want your ends hanging to the back of the piece.  You will begin new threads when old ones end, if possible.  The back will not show.  It will be lined in silk.  So it can be a complete mess.
Thread a beading needle with beading thread.  Tie a knot so that it forms a loop.  Loop the silk weft into the loop and load your beads onto the needle.  They will easily slide onto the silk weft.  Place the strung beads into the shed (the space between the raised and lowered warps) and push them down into the V.  Pull tightly on the silk weft so that there is no loop at the end and it is wrapped snugly against the opposite warp thread.  The beads are hard so they will prevent your from pulling in at the edges.  In fact, if you warp was at all uneven, the beads will even everything out nicely.
Warp the silk around the warp thread to keep that last bead in place.  Change the shed and weave the silk weft to the other side.  Weave until your run out of weft and then begin a new color where the original weft ended.  Weave that color for two passes.  You are now ready to add a second and third color.
You will be inserting these two additional wefts in opposite directions.  The second weft (the salmon colored weft in my example) will head toward the existing turquoise weft.  The sage weft will be headed away from the turqoise weft.  By doing this, your wefts can cross into each other’s territory and still be in the correct shed.  This is a kind of difficult concept to understand before you’ve played with it.  So now that we’ve got our silk wefts in place, let’s play with them.
Weave the sage weft into the salmon wefts territory but don’t go past the tail of the salmon weft.  Weave the salmon weft back to meet the sage weft, wrapping around a common warp.  Weave the turqoise weft back to the right.  In this case, I’ve wrapped it around the next door warp but could have wrapped it around a common warp.
Keep playing with this method for a while.  I will show you pictures of each row I weave.  As I mentioned, you can either wrap around common warps or not.  For this technique it makes little difference although one does have a natural tendency to wrap around common warps.
You have just learned how to:
Weave several wefts in opposite directions.
Create shading.
Create shapes (note the salmon shape you’ve created).
To end the three wefts, first weave the right ones toward each other and end them by sticking their ends to the back of the weaving.  Then weave the left weft to the left warp.  Weave it until it is used up and then replace it with an entirely new color.  I used the color we began with.  Weave a few passes and then thread with beads and weave a row of beads.
Weave the silk weft until it runs out.  Add another silk weft and weave a couple of rows.
Add some railroad yarn to the silk and weave the two at the same time.  This will add both texture and some great color to your piece.
End the silk/railroad combination weft and replace with two different colors of silk also to be woven at the same time.
Next we are going to weave sections of diagonal shapes.  End the double silk weft by wrapping around the outside warp so it hangs to the back of the piece.
My piece is 40 warps so I will make each shape 10 warps wide.  The best way to guide yourself through this is to stick markers in the warp so you can see where you will begin and end a shape.  You are going to be weaving these four single silk wefts in the same direction.
Start like this:  The four wefts begin and end where the markers are.
Weave the right weft to the left first.  Weave the next three wefts in order to the left.

Next, weave the left weft to the right but weave over one more warp.  Do the same for the other three wefts.  The goal is to create a diagnol shapes by weaving over one warp when you go to the left and reducing by one warp when you weave to the right.

Follow the pictures.  Your left shape is gong to get bigger and bigger whereas your right shape is going to shrink.

At some point you can remove the guide threads as they won’t be necessary.

To end the left weft wrap around the end warp so it is hanging to the back.

Weave back all the other wefts.

Stick the ends of the other wefts to the back of the piece.


Insert a new silk weft.

Weave it for a few passes.

Add a second weft to the existing weft that is longer.

Weave until you run out of the first silk.  Replace with a new silk weft to add to the existing weft.

Weave until you run out of one of the silk threads and replace with railroad yarn.

End the railroad yarn and replace with silk weft.

Weave a couple of rows of silk weft.

You can continue to play with adding and replacing wefts.  I will be teaching additional techniques but they can be anywhere on this piece.  What we have just woven will actually be the flap of your piece.  Or you can wait until next week and weave along with me.

First attempt at iphone/smartphone case

A while back I started the silk purse for the latest weave-along.  I was so proud of myself for starting it a while few weeks before I needed to.  I took a bunch of photos but took no notes.  When I finally got around the compiling all the photos into something that resembles instructions, it was clear I had both screwed a bunch of things up and missed a bunch of essential photographs.  Elena said:  do it again!But I decided at very least to finish the piece on the loom in adequate as it was.  Who wants to cut off and toss ten inches or so of weaving.  So I grit my teeth and wove away.  And this is what I just finished.  The strap is a flat braid.  I’ve used mostly hand painted silk with a little bit of railroad yarn.  I lined it with silk.  It will work.  It’s just not what I envisioned at all for the weave along.  I will spend the rest of today an tomorrow working on the new one.

And below, of course, is where this purse comes from!

Weave-Along 7, Day One: Silk and Bead Purse

Welcome to Mirrix’s 7th Weave-Along! 

The first step to weaving this fiber and bead purse is to decide how big you want your purse to be. 

My piece will be just big enough to fit an iPhone and a few credit cards. If you are making this piece for another phone or for something else, you may want to make your piece a different size. 

For example, if you plan to use this for a different sized phone, measure the width of the phone and add another inch to the width of the piece.

Then, measure the height of the phone, double that, add an inch and then add two and a half inches for the flap or whatever you decide you want your flap to be.

If your phone is 3 inches wide and 5 inches tall your piece would be 4 inches wide and 13.5 inches tall including the flap. 

When you warp there should be about 10 warps in one inch. (So if your piece is 4 inches wide, you’d warp 40 warps across.)

My piece is warped 40 warps wide using a ten-dent spring. If you are using a twelve dent spring, you will warp the same amount of warps across but when you have finished warping you will loosen your tension slightly, spread your spring out where your piece is (until there are ten spaces in an inch instead of twelve) and then put tension back on the loom. This will make the twelve-dent coil act like a ten-dent coil. 

My piece will be thirteen inches long (including the flap). To accommodate this, the loom is set at about 14 inches high (measure from the bottom of one beam to the top of the other).

Now that you’ve figured out how wide and long your piece will be, it’s time to begin warping!

Have you never warped before? Don’t worry, it’s easy!

For this project we will warp for tapestry with the shedding device. We have detailed warping  instructions here: http://www.mirrixlooms.com/images/warpinginstructions/tapestry.pdf. 

If you have any questions about how wide or long your piece should be or how to do any of these steps, just ask us! Email claudia@mirrixlooms.com or elena@mirrixlooms.com.

Book Giveaway!

Chris Franchetti Michaels, (you may know her as beadwork.about.com‘s fabulous guide) recently released a new jewelry making book “Teach Yourself VISUALLY More Jewelry Making”. Now, I know this blog is dedicated to weaving on a loom, but I’m sure many of you are multi-talented when it comes to your crafting skills and I wanted to offer one reader a FREE copy of Chris’ book! 

Not that I need new crafts to take up, but this book has some seriously tempting projects. From learning wire jewelry making techniques to bending and shaping metals to making your own rivets to using chain, to working with leather (that tempts me the most… do you think my husband would mind if I turned our bedroom into storage for craft supplies?) and clay and resin and… lots more. Twelve chapters are filled with easy-to-follow instructions to teach techniques as well as projects. Amazon will give you a little sneak peak (click “Click to Look Inside”). This book is the follow-up to Chris’ first book, which I haven’t read but I’m sure is fantastic, “Teach Yourself VISUALLY Jewelry Making and Beading“.
How to Enter:
Comment on this post anytime before midnight (PDT) on May 7th, 2012, Like us (Mirrix Looms) on Facebook and be sure to check out beadwork.about.com!
Giveaway Rules:
Entries must be received by midnight on May 7th, 2012
Spam will not be entered.
You must live in the continental United States to win
You must be at least 18 years old to enter

Oh, and you should probably check out Chris’s Affinity Bracelets she made on her Mirrix

Weave-Along 6: Crystal and Two-Cut Bead Affinity Bracelet

Necessary materials: 
Warp:  Hand painted silk is nice but anything strong and beautiful will do
Beads:  We are using lovely two cut size 11/0 iris beads (www.caravanbeads.net)
Crystals:  any size 4mm round crystals will do
Warp your loom with the hand painted silk warp (or something beautiful).  You will essentially have six warps, but we suggest you double the end warps so that you have more silk to create the rope or braid at the ends.  You will also be leaving a space twice as wide as the other spaces between the two middle warps.  This is to accommodate the crystal, which is twice as wide as the beads.
String up six of the two cut beads and put behind and between the warp threads.  Sew through the front of the warp making sure to capture all the beads
 For row two, you will string up two beads, one crystal, two beads.
I have skipped a row, but what I am doing here is what you need to do with your first crystal.  Pick up two beads.  Bring thread in front of piece after warp three.  Sew through crystal.  Bring thread behind warp before warp four.  String two beads.  Then sew back through the two beads, the crystal and the remaining two beads.
 Weave two rows of just beads.  Repeat two rows with one crystal.
  Weave until you’ve woven fifteen crystals  Remove from loom.
Trim loops on end of warp.
Tie overhand knots in the pairs of warps.  For fun, we slipped on two glazed clay beads.  You must have something fun around your house you can slip on before creating the rope.
We made just one rope by dividing the warps in half, twisting in the direction of twist already in the warp and then back twisting on itself to create one rope on each end.  Recently, we’ve figured out that C-clamps come in handy for this operation.  Just clamp the body of your piece to a table to keep it stable while making the ropes.
For the cl asp, make a small rope with the warp material and then wrap it twice around the over-lapped warp ends and pulling it tightly.  Tie a knot.
Your bracelet is now ready to wear or to gift!

Weave-Along 6: Week Two, The Second Bracelet

This second Affinity bracelet is made entirely of seed beads (in this case we’ve used 2 cut 11/0 seed beads, but you can use just regular 11/0 seed beads.  The warp is  hand painted so we only used one “color” which turns out to be a lot of colors.

The supplies you need other than the warp and the beads include:  C-Lon (or some kind of) beading thread, a bead weaving needle, a tapestry needle and a scissors.

We used eight warps.  You can use as many or as few as you’d like, but we like this number of warps for this particular weave.

Tie the end of threaded C-Lon thread to side bar of loom using a slip knot.

Weave one row of beads.  Remove tied end from side bar and make half of square knot and pull so that the warp threads are arranged so that there is no space between the threads and the beads.

Sew in the tail end of the bead thread, tying a knot around a warp thread and sewing some more.  

Trim weft tail.

Start the gold thread.  We have used six strands.

On your return pass, catch the end of the thread so that it travels up the side of the weaving and is buried.  Use this same method to conceal the bead weft, so that it too travels up the side of your weaving.

Once you’ve woven six or so rows, trim the gold weft tail.

 Weave another row of beads, burying the gold thread along the side of the piece.

Wasn’t that fast!  We are almost done weaving.  See how tight and GOLD this piece looks.

Close up of that magic gold thread.

We discovered a way to keep the piece from  running all round when trying to finish the ends.  Just use a nice big C-clamp and clamp the body of your piece to a table edge.  Works great.  Do not break asn beads though.  You will notice that the piece we are finishing is not the one that was on the loom.  The finished piece uses size 11/0 seed beads.

Tie over hand knots in  half the threads.  Use your tapestry needle to push the knot toward the base of the piece.

We have braided our ends instead of making roes.

Make a peyote tube for closing.  Instructions for this are in Affinity bracelet One tutorial.

Now it’s time for you to explore your bead stash and make up new design to share with us!

The Affinity Bracelet Weave-Along Week One

Welcome to the Affinity Bracelet Weave-along Part 1.  In this lesson we will start and finish an Affinity Bracelet.  Because there are so many possibilities for the Affinity bracelets, we’ve decided to weave more than one.  The first bracelet will be woven on a hand-painted silk warp (or if you have not purchased the silk warp or the kit, you can use other embroidery silk or cotton for the warp . . . just make sure it’s not too thick while also being strong enough to withstand a good amount of loom tension).  For weft, we will be using hand-painted silk (or whatever you are using as a substitute) and size 8/0 seed beads.  The next Affinity bracelet will be woven entirely from gold thread and size 11/0 seed beads.  And if you are willing, we might just throw in a third bracelet possibly made just from a variety of beads.  We have some ideas!

So let’s begin with our first Affinity bracelet.  This is so much fun to weave and even to finish!

We have used to colors of hand-painted silk.  Each “color” actually contains about four or five colors, so this is going to turn out to be a rather rain-bowish piece because we will be using the same silk for he weft.  We have put a total of eight warps on the loom, which means the rows that contain 8/0 seed beads will contain seven beads.  Note that there is no need to use a spring because the first row of beads will create the warp sett and will continue to keep the sett correct as you add beads.  Plus we’ve found that even if you don’t add a lot of beads, the selvedges tend to stay straight as long as one is careful to not tug too hard when bringing the silk weft through the shed.

Our bracelet weaving is going to be 4 1/2 inches long.  The silk ends and clasp take up quite a lot of space.  You want the weaving part to curve around your wrist leaving a couple of inches of space on the back.  The great thing is you don’t have to be exact about this.  If your piece is a little too short, it will still look fabulous.  The silk warp ends are beautiful too.

Warped 8″ loom ready to go. You want to leave a lot of extra warp on either side of the piece.  We suggest about six to seven inches.  This warp will become part of the piece and will not be “loom waste”.

Close up of all those gorgeous silk colors.

Tie your bead thread to the side bar with a slip knot.

Pick up seven 8/0 seed beads and place behind and in between the warp threads.

Sew back through the beads but behind the warp, thereby attaching the beads to the warp.

Pull tightly so that the beads are snug against one another.

After adding a few rows of beads, thread the other end of the bead thread that was attached to the side bar and sew it half way through the bottom row of beads, knot around a warp thread, and sew through the beads to the end of the row. Trim end.
Begin a row of silk weft by threading your tapestry needle with the silk and weaving under the first warp, over the second warp, etc. until you’ve reached the end.

When you weave back going under the threads you went over and over the threads you went under,  remember to catch your bead thread inside your silk weft so that it will travel up the piece until you use it again.

Just like you caught your bead thread, you also want to catch the tail of your silk weft.  You will do this for a few rows and then later trim that piece.  This method gives you a two sided piece, which is necessary to make your Affinity bracelet look finished without stray ends hanging out on the back. 

A few rows into weaving our silk weft.

Another visual of how to catch that bead thread!

The yarn just sings with nice color changes!

Trimming the weft end.  Amazing how I was able to hold a camera and do this at the same time!

Add another row of beads, this time catching your weft in the bead thread to allow it to travel up the side of the piece until you are ready to use it again.

Back to the silk using all the same techniques of burying the thread we have mentioned.

A nice visual of catching the bead thread.  Look how neat the edges look.

Here we start a new silk weft thread the same way we started the last one.

Again employing the method of catching the weft tail and the bead thread to allow them to travel up the side of the piece.

Because we’ve used the second color of variegated silk, it looks like we’ve added a whole bunch of new colors.

Adding back the original silk weft color.

Almost there . . . our piece is going to be 4 1/2 inches long.

Our last row of beads.  Sew part way through the row below, tie a knot around a warp thread and continue sewing through the beads.  

Tying a knot around the warp thread.

Release tension on the loom and slip out the warping bar.  Trim the very ends of your warp so that you’ve cut the loops enabling your to tie knots in thread pairs.

Trimmed warp ends.

Our piece resting off the loom.

Weight one end of your piece so you can tie knots on the other end.

Tie the beginning of a square knot.

Snug the knot close to your piece.

Tie an overhand knot.  Stick your tapestry needle in the knot and push the knot toward the base of our piece.

Once the knot is in the correct place, remove your tapestry needle.

An overhand knot in exactly the right place!

A bunch of (fuzzy) knots.

All the knots tied.

Weight one end of your piece.  Take two pairs of paired warp ends and twist in the direction of the yarn causing them to over twist.

Then allow the yarns to twist back on themselves forming a rope.

Tie a knot leaving at least five inches between your knot and the base of the weaving.

Second two ties turned into ropes.

You can use a simple knot to attach your piece to your wrist or you can make a peyote tube out of seed beads and use that as a closure.

Beginning a flat piece of even count peyote:  string ten 11/0 seed beads.

Pick up a bead and sew the second strung bead.  Pick up a second bead and sew through the fourth bead, etc. until you’ve reached the end.

Keep doing this until you have a piece that snugly wraps around the silk ropes (photo of this a little later on).   In this photo we’ve taken the tail end and sewed it back into the piece, forming a knot and continuing to sew into the beads.

Knotting the tail.

In order to be able to “zip” your piece you will need the two sides to be staggered.  

For really clear instructions on how to do peyote stitch, we recommend you visit the beadworkabout.com http://beadwork.about.com/od/beadingstitchtutorials/ss/flat_even_count_peyote.htm

Wrap your piece around the four ties to see if it will be snug enough.  To do this, cross the two sets of ties.  The peyote tube will  hold them together, letting the  ties slide open to put on your wrist and then tighten to keep it on our wrist.  You want this tube to be as small as possible so that it puts pressure on the ties and  doesn’t allow the bracelet to slip off your wrist.

Just the right size and ready to tie on.  You can use the same number of rows as above if you’ve used the Mirrix silk warp.

Wrap the tube around the ties and start zipping it together.  Be careful not to catch any of the threads from the ties because they need to move freely underneath the tube.

Our finished tube!

Notice how one of the warp ends is too short.  Well, last night the piece was left on a desk and Maia the cat thought it would make a great chew toy.  She chewed off one of the ends.  This bracelet is a keeper because we can’t give it away now!

 There she is:  ready to wear and love.

No Warps to Weave in Bracelet Weave-along

For this project, you will need a Mirrix Loom with a No Warp-Ends Kit. We have these available for our new sized 5″ Mini Mirrix and also for our 8″ Lani Loom, 12″ Little Guy Loom and 16″ Big Sister Loom. The kits can be purchased here. The project is done with our No Warps To Weave in Bracelet Kit.

Included in this kit:

-Enough size 8/0 permanent finish galvanized beads and magatamas to complete two bracelets
-A 30 foot spool of Metallics Soft Flex fine beading wire
-A bobbin of C-Lon beading thread

Warping your Mirrix Loom

(Go straight to the YouTube Video here)

1) Slide the required number of paper clips on each bar.  If you don’t put enough on, don’t worry because you can always add more while the bars are on the loom.  If you put on too many, you can slide the clips to the side.  In this example, we used five clips on the top and five on the bottom for a piece that will be nine beads wide.  For this piece we will be using eight warps, so put four on the top bar and four on the bottom.

2) Loop the two pieces of cord over the top of the loom.  Stick the ends of the top bar through the loops near the end of the cords.  Take the other two tales of the cord underneath the loom and up to the top bar.  You will be attaching the cord to that same top bar (the bottom bar gets inserted later).  Make sure each cord is the same length.  It does not have to be tight.  The tension will be adjusted later. 

3) To attach the bottom bar, first measure down from the bottom of the paper clips of the top bar to the place on the cord that is the length of the piece you want to weave PLUS the length of the paperclips on the bottom bar.  I am making my bracelet six inches long.  Stick the bottom bar into the two cords at this place.  It will easily slide into the holes of the cord. 

4) In order to warp the loom, tie (or use a slip knot to attach) your SoftFlex wire to either a top or bottom paper clip and then in a zigzag pattern slip your warp through the top and bottom paper clips until you have as many warps as you need.  Tie off (or use a slip knot) on the final paper clip. 

5) Slide the cord that is on the outside of the top bar (the cord that runs the same path as your warp) off the top bar.  Now you just have warp between the bars on the front of the loom.

6) Evenly space the paperclips.  Apply tension on the loom.

Weaving your Bracelet

Now for the fun part.  Tie the end of a three foot piece of C-Lon thread to side bar of loom.  Weave two or three rows of just size 8/0 beads.

Follow those rows with a row of alternating 8/0s and magatamas starting with an 8/0 on the outside.  The next row will also alternate these two beads but with the magatamas on the outside.  Follow this with a row starting with a size 8/0 bead. 

Continue this pattern of three rows of just 8/0 beads and three rows of mixed beads until you see that you have room for only three or four rows of 8/0s.  Weave until you cannot fit in another row.

We will finish our bracelets next week!

Tapestry Techniques

Weaving tapestry is painting with fiber.  As you learn new techniques you gain the skills to weave different shapes and patterns and to better translate your ideas. The tapestry/bead cuff bracelet is a great place to begin playing with tapestry techniques. Here we will go over three techniques. If you don’t understand them right away don’t get frustrated, as tapestry takes time to master.

If you’re interested in better explanations of tapestry techniques or want to learn more about tapestry we suggest you purchase a book. Kathe Todd-Hooker’s book, “Tapestry 101″ and “Tapestry Weaving” by Kirsten Glasbrook are both great books for beginners with lots of detail and easy-to-follow instructions. What we show you here is just a taste! 

I began to take new pictures of my current weave-along bracelet to show tapestry techniques, but realized the pictures we had already taken were very clear. Have fun this week, experiment and play! Remember also that you don’t need to use these techniques in your bracelet. Using them (and/or how many techniques you use) is all up to you and your design.

Selvages: The four sides of your piece.
Warp interlock: When the two ends of weft meet at a warp thread and wrap around that thread before changing direction. 

Tapestry techniques we’re trying today: Pick and Pick, Wavy Lines, Hatching.

A short explanation of pick and pick and wavy lines:
Both of these techniques require that you alternate the weaving of two different color threads. In pick and pick, you alternate them one after another. In other words, thread one, thread two, thread one, thread two, etc.. Wavy line technique requires that you weave thread one twice, thread two twice, thread one twice, thread two twice. Pick and pick produces vertical stripes, wavy lines produces the effect of wavy lines. These two have in common the necessity to deal with the selvages in a slightly unusual manner. You will have to manage these two threads in a way that will guarantee the selvage thread has enough weft around it.In the first case, depending on the position of your threads you will have to wrap one of your weft threads around the selvage thread in order to guarantee complete coverage.

In the second case, the top thread will pull the second thread and by doing so the top thread will cover the selvage thread twice. These techniques take some time to master but are well worth the effort. If you’re feeling intimidated, it is by no means necessary to use these techniques in your cuff but we do suggest you try the hatching technique (described last) at the very least.

Pick and Pick: 

In our example, we’ve used magenta and a golden yellow to begin our pick and pick. We alternate the colors thereby creating vertical stripes. In other words, weave the yellow thread once, and then the magenta thread once (making sure to change sheds every time you weave a new thread) then the yellow, then the magenta, etc… Follow the pictures for a visual of what we did:

First line of yellow

Second line of magenta (refer to earlier in this post to learn how to deal with your edges). Remember to change your shed every time you bring a thread across. 

Notice the beautiful vertical stripes emerging 
To continue with this design, but to add something extra, we stopped the magenta in the middle of the piece and started a purple thread at that place, thereby replacing the magenta with the purple. This allows us to continue the design but with a different color scheme. You could theoretically keep replacing threads as they run out with new ones for the entire bracelet and allow that to be your design. One way to approach this would be continue with the yellow thread and only replace the other ones. That would give you the most interesting effect. This kit may not include enough of any one shade of one color to do that, but we wanted to give you an idea of future design possibilities. We switched to using green after the purple thread as an example of this.
Changing the color to purple
Wavy Lines:

Wavy lines are very similar to pick and pick but instead of making one pass with a color, you make two passes creating what looks like wavy lines. 

Here, we started with two passes weaving with green, then two with yellow, then two with green, etc… 

Follow the pictures to see what we did:

The first pass through with green


This technique also involves two threads but the left thread will stay on the left and the right thread will stay on the right. In a full scale tapestry this is a great way to blend two colors together to create shading. This technique also involves warp interlock because when the two ends meet at a warp thread they each wrap around it before changing direction.

The way hatching works:  The two threads will come meet each other at any place within the tapestry you would like.  The threads must be woven toward each other.  They will then wrap around a common warp thread and head away from each other in the next shed.  These two colors will dovetail into each other.  A lot of other techniques can spring from this one including adding additional colors.  For now and for such a small piece we suggest you keep it simple and just use two colors.

The yellow and blue thread heading toward each other.

Wrap the two threads around the common warp, change sheds and head in opposite directions.

A clear visual of the threads wrapping around a common warp.

See how the dovetailing is beginning to reveal itself!

You can see how useful this technique can be!

Remember that these techniques can take some time to master. Play around! Have fun! And, as always, contact us with any questions and post YOUR tapestry technique pictures on our Facebook Group.