Mirrix Loom Weave Along #8- Soumak Pouch-1-Warp and Weft

Mirrix Loom Weave Along  # 8 -

Soumak Pouch- 1- Warp and Weft

In September, I will be leading a Weave Along, using Mirrix Looms.
I will be posting the  pattern, video tutorials, instructions and step by step photos for the Weave Along here on Tottie Talks Crafts.

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The project is a Business Card Pouch, which also works well as a cellphone pouch, woven in Soumak, embellished with corded edges and chain stitch embroidery.
I have designed it to be welcoming to entry level weavers, but also, with options that will appeal (I hope) to more advanced weavers, too.
Because it can take awhile to get orders cleared and shipped, I am posting some suggested warp and weft yarns, as well as the links for ordering them now.
Hopefully, your yarns will arrive before September first.
Here are a few photos of some of the Business Card pouches that I have woven so far:

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This is the first Business card pouch that I wove, using:

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Harrisville Warp LINK
and: Wool weft:  Harrisville Variety Yarn Pack: Brights LINK

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I wove the second  pouch with the Harrisville warp and for weft:

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Harrisville Variety Yarn Pack Jewels LINK

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I quite like both p0uches, but …. OOPS!
They are slightly too small for their intended purpose!  EEGADS! Business cards don’t fit in them!

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So, I went back to the drawing board, and altered the pattern.
By then, gorgeous yarn had arrived from Lion Brand yarns: LINK TO BONBON YARN

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The photo doesn’t convey the scale of the balls of Bonbon…
They are tiny, perfect little balls of loveliness. Each of them is 2 1/2 inches (6cm) tall.
The cotton is simply gorgeous to weave with.  I love it.
I wove these Pouches in Bonbon cottons, with Metallic chain stitch embroidery:

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I used the  ‘Nature’ colorway for the pouch in the photo above, and ‘Beach for the pouch in the photo below:

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The Metallic yarns come in six packs, as does the cotton. I used yarns from both colorways: Party and Celebrate, for these pouches.

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My daughter in law suggested that I add a swivel snap hook to the upper corner of the pouch.
I thought that it was a great suggestion, and so I have added it.
The swivel clip allows you to clip it to your bag, or the belt loop of blue jeans.
If your cellphone is one of the larger ones, you may need to upsize your pouch if you would rather use it as a cellphone pouch instead of a business card pouch.

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I used Lion Cotton for the warp for these two pouches, because I wanted to use yarns that you can order at the same time to make this all easier for you:

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I wasn’t sure if it would work for the projects, but it does just fine.
I don’t think that I would use it for tapestry warp for a really large project, because it has a cheerful slightly bouncy nature.
Warp for tapestry really does need to be made of sterner stuff :D  None of that youthful springiness!
Speaking of warp- a couple of my Ravelry friends have asked if carpet warp would be okay for the Weave Along, and yes, indeed, it will work fine.

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I am going to weave some of the pouches on carpet warp, and also on the green linen that’s on that ginormous spool.
I am waiting for yarn (both Warp and Weft) from Mirrix. When they arrive, I will edit them into this post.
They haven’t arrived yet, but Elena has posted a photo and a link for the kit:

Gorgeous, yes?  :D
Here’s the link to order them:  MIRRIX KIT LINK
In my next post, I will show you the equipment, materials and tools that you will need to gather up for the Weave Along.
Here’s the link to  a post that has all the blog post links, to keep everything quick and easy to refer to : LINK
You are invited to post comments on the blog posts here on Tottie Talks Crafts…. AND….
Please post your photos and join in the discussion on the Facebook group: LINK
And, you can post your weave along photos and chat with the other WAL participants on Ravelry, too: LINK
There’s a sign up on the Mirrix website so you’ll get notifications of the posts. LINK

CHECK LIST FOR WARP AND WEFT:
- warp
-weft
-optional contrast yarn for chain stitch embellishment

You are so welcome to join in!
:) Noreen

Mirrix Looms Weave Along #8 Soumak Pouch-ALL the links

Mirrix Loom Weave Along #8  Soumak Pouch- All the links

This blog post is going to be growing, as I will be listing all the links to each of the posts for the Weave Along Soumak Business Card Pouch.

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Mirrix Loom Weave Along # 8 Soumak Pouch-1- Warp and Weft suggestions and links to order them: LINK

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Mirrix Loom Weave Along Soumak Business Card or Cellphone pouch – 2 – Tools, equipment and materials: LINK

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Information about the Kit from Mirrix, and the tools and materials for edgings: LINK

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Two more pouches and links for Kreinik threads: LINK

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Part One: Setting up the Looms: LINK

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Part Two: Design Notes: LINK

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Part Three: Warping the Looms: LINK

Part Four: Weaving techniques: LINK

Weave-Along 7: Finishing Your Purse

It’s time to finish your lovely silk purse.  After having woven the header (the last few rows of warp material woven in as weft), cut your piece from the loom remembering to leave five inches of fringe to make tying them easier.
It ‘s time to finish your lovely silk purse.  After having woven the header (the last few rows of warp material woven in as weft), cut your piece from the loom remembering to leave five inches of fringe to make tying them easier.  Weight your piece with something so that while you are tying the fringe the piece is stable.  Take two warp ends from the left or right.  Tie the first part of a square knot (the one you use to tie your shoes before making the bow).  Make sure the knot is flush with the edge of your weaving. 
 Next, tie an overhand knot.  Stick a needle into the knot itself and then guide the knot to the base of your weaving.  Do this with the warps on the other side as well as the left and right warps on the other end of your piece.  This will prevent the weft from raveling.  Next, tie all the warps in this manner.
This is the back of the piece. You want to clean it up a bit.  Trim the weft ends so they are a half inch to an inch or so long.
So it looks like this.
Fold the header and footer to the back of the piece and pin down.  Use a whip stitch to sew it down to the back.
Lay your piece on top of the silk lining material.  Trim the material to look like below photo.
Pin lining to back of piece.
Sew lining to back of piece.
Fold piece together and sew and pin.
Sew two sides together.
Then use groups of three beads to sew all around the sides and top of the piece like so.
 Finished piece.
My iphone is very happy although I did promise to give it Elena.

Weave-Along 7: Continuing to Weave

Today we will weave the rest of the piece.  Next week we finish it.
Our first technique will be wavey lines.  They are simple to do and have a fun effect.  All you do is weave two passes of one color and then two passes of another color.  Keep repeating this pattern and you will get the effect of wavey lines.  Why?  Because, in tapestry, in order to weave an entire line, you need to weave two lines.  The first pass covers the odd warps, let’s say; the second pass covers the even warps.  And although you essentially have a line, it’s a staggered line.  So when you create sets of lines with different colors it creates a wavey pattern.  Hence:  wavey lines.
After weaving the two passes of pink, I add a blue weft.
The blue weft is woven twice.
Then the pink weft is woven tw ice.
Here you can fully see the effect.  It’s easy, fast and pretty.
Below, I have marked the warps to separate ten warps on the left, twenty warps in the middle and ten warps on the right. We are going to make a triangle!
The three wefts will be woven in opposite directions so that their joins are in the right shed.  Weave the right weft to the left, the middle weft to the right and the left weft to the left.
Weave each weft until they have passed around both their end warps twice.  The triangle is going to be stepped up two lines at a time.
Now it’s time to increase the outer wefts and decrease the middle weft.
Because the wefts were woven in opposite directions, you can encroach on the middle wefts territory and have your weft be in the correct shed.
Keep weaving this pattern making sure each weft passes around its side warps twice before increasing or decreasing.
Done with the triangle.  Kill one of the side wefts and take the other weft all the way across the piece.  Add more weft if you need to.
I then added some railroad yarn to the single blue weft.
I strung some beads on just the silk.  Wove the beads.  And then continued with the railroad yarn and silk.
Then
Wove with just silk weft for a while and then added a new color of silk weft.
Added another color of silk weft.
Added some railroad yarn to the silk weft.
Below, I’ve marked the warps at ten, twenty and ten again in order to weave slit tapestry blocks.
The wefts were inserted going in the same direction.  They will not be crossing into one another’s territory so it was not necessary to weave them in opposite directions.
Just build up the individual wefts forming slits in between.
I buried all the weft tails. . .
. . . and started a new weft.
Added some beads and continued with the silk weft.
Just weaving single wefts and adding new ones when I ran out.
Added some railroad yarn.
Added beads . . .
Just follow the pictures.
Wavey lines again (or whatever you want to do).
Ended at 12 inches.
Wove a header.
Next week:  FINISHING your sweet little silk and bead purse!

Weave-Along Week Three: Weft Interlock


Time for some weft interlock.
Using some scrap yarn, divide your warps into roughly four evenly spaced sections.
Insert your four wefts going in the same direction, from left to right.  Then head back to the right starting with the weft on the right.  When you weave the second weft, catch it around the first weft and weave.  Do this with the following two wefts.  Essentially, the wefts, where they meet, loop around one another.  The line between the wefts will be in between warps making this very different from warp interlock, where you wrap your weft around the same warp.  With weft interlock, which is frequently used in Navajo technique, there is less building up of higher weft areas where they interlock making it a better technique for building up straight lines.  The best technique is obviously slit technique where there is no build up, but then you have those pesky slits to sew up.
Next weave back from right to left.  Your wefts are already caught around one another so you are just weaving back.
The next step is to weave from left to right, catching the wefts with one another until you get to the right side of the weaving.
Continue this process with the next wefts.   Weave until you’ve built up about half an inch.
End your wefts except for the far right one.  Weave that back to the left slightly and replace it with two silk wefts.

Add two silk wefts and weave for a bit.  Then replace with single silk weft.

Add a row of beads.

Weave a the silk weft.

For a bit!

Add another color of single silk weft.  Weave for another bit and then add another row of beads.

Continue with some single silk weft.

Add some railroad yarn to the silk weft.

Weave a bunch of it.

Add some single silk weft.  The double it up.

Weave some doubled silk weft.

Change it up a bit by replacing one silk weft with a new color.  Play!

Play with some of these techniques (maybe try those fun squares again) until you’ve woven another four inches!

Silk Purse Weave-Along Week 2 (Weave-Along 7)



If you have a bottom spring kit, as I do here, start weaving your header.  If you don’t have a bottom spring kit, cut a thread three times the width of your loom.  Engage the shedding device, weave it to the threaded bar, wrap it around the threaded bar, change the she and weave it back to the other threaded rod.  Tie the two ends tightly around the threaded bar.  This will serve as a base for starting your weaving.  Make sure the two threads make a straight line.  Arrange the warps so that they are evening spaced at ten ends per inch.   Then begin weaving a header.
Two weave a header:  cut a manageable length of warp thread and weave it back and forth for about a third of an inch.  This header will be folded over to the back of your weaving when you finish your piece.  Be mindful to not pull too tightly at the sides of your weaving but also to not leave loops at the edges.   Beat it down with a tapestry beater or, if you don’t own one  a kitchen fork.
End your header about six warps in and begin a weft of just silk where the header ends.  Remember, you always want your ends hanging to the back of the piece.  You will begin new threads when old ones end, if possible.  The back will not show.  It will be lined in silk.  So it can be a complete mess.
Thread a beading needle with beading thread.  Tie a knot so that it forms a loop.  Loop the silk weft into the loop and load your beads onto the needle.  They will easily slide onto the silk weft.  Place the strung beads into the shed (the space between the raised and lowered warps) and push them down into the V.  Pull tightly on the silk weft so that there is no loop at the end and it is wrapped snugly against the opposite warp thread.  The beads are hard so they will prevent your from pulling in at the edges.  In fact, if you warp was at all uneven, the beads will even everything out nicely.
Warp the silk around the warp thread to keep that last bead in place.  Change the shed and weave the silk weft to the other side.  Weave until your run out of weft and then begin a new color where the original weft ended.  Weave that color for two passes.  You are now ready to add a second and third color.
You will be inserting these two additional wefts in opposite directions.  The second weft (the salmon colored weft in my example) will head toward the existing turquoise weft.  The sage weft will be headed away from the turqoise weft.  By doing this, your wefts can cross into each other’s territory and still be in the correct shed.  This is a kind of difficult concept to understand before you’ve played with it.  So now that we’ve got our silk wefts in place, let’s play with them.
Weave the sage weft into the salmon wefts territory but don’t go past the tail of the salmon weft.  Weave the salmon weft back to meet the sage weft, wrapping around a common warp.  Weave the turqoise weft back to the right.  In this case, I’ve wrapped it around the next door warp but could have wrapped it around a common warp.
Keep playing with this method for a while.  I will show you pictures of each row I weave.  As I mentioned, you can either wrap around common warps or not.  For this technique it makes little difference although one does have a natural tendency to wrap around common warps.
You have just learned how to:
Weave several wefts in opposite directions.
Create shading.
Create shapes (note the salmon shape you’ve created).
To end the three wefts, first weave the right ones toward each other and end them by sticking their ends to the back of the weaving.  Then weave the left weft to the left warp.  Weave it until it is used up and then replace it with an entirely new color.  I used the color we began with.  Weave a few passes and then thread with beads and weave a row of beads.
Weave the silk weft until it runs out.  Add another silk weft and weave a couple of rows.
Add some railroad yarn to the silk and weave the two at the same time.  This will add both texture and some great color to your piece.
End the silk/railroad combination weft and replace with two different colors of silk also to be woven at the same time.
Next we are going to weave sections of diagonal shapes.  End the double silk weft by wrapping around the outside warp so it hangs to the back of the piece.
My piece is 40 warps so I will make each shape 10 warps wide.  The best way to guide yourself through this is to stick markers in the warp so you can see where you will begin and end a shape.  You are going to be weaving these four single silk wefts in the same direction.
Start like this:  The four wefts begin and end where the markers are.
Weave the right weft to the left first.  Weave the next three wefts in order to the left.

Next, weave the left weft to the right but weave over one more warp.  Do the same for the other three wefts.  The goal is to create a diagnol shapes by weaving over one warp when you go to the left and reducing by one warp when you weave to the right.

Follow the pictures.  Your left shape is gong to get bigger and bigger whereas your right shape is going to shrink.

At some point you can remove the guide threads as they won’t be necessary.

To end the left weft wrap around the end warp so it is hanging to the back.

Weave back all the other wefts.

Stick the ends of the other wefts to the back of the piece.

Done!

Insert a new silk weft.

Weave it for a few passes.

Add a second weft to the existing weft that is longer.

Weave until you run out of the first silk.  Replace with a new silk weft to add to the existing weft.

Weave until you run out of one of the silk threads and replace with railroad yarn.

End the railroad yarn and replace with silk weft.

Weave a couple of rows of silk weft.

You can continue to play with adding and replacing wefts.  I will be teaching additional techniques but they can be anywhere on this piece.  What we have just woven will actually be the flap of your piece.  Or you can wait until next week and weave along with me.

First attempt at iphone/smartphone case

A while back I started the silk purse for the latest weave-along.  I was so proud of myself for starting it a while few weeks before I needed to.  I took a bunch of photos but took no notes.  When I finally got around the compiling all the photos into something that resembles instructions, it was clear I had both screwed a bunch of things up and missed a bunch of essential photographs.  Elena said:  do it again!But I decided at very least to finish the piece on the loom in adequate as it was.  Who wants to cut off and toss ten inches or so of weaving.  So I grit my teeth and wove away.  And this is what I just finished.  The strap is a flat braid.  I’ve used mostly hand painted silk with a little bit of railroad yarn.  I lined it with silk.  It will work.  It’s just not what I envisioned at all for the weave along.  I will spend the rest of today an tomorrow working on the new one.

And below, of course, is where this purse comes from!

Weave-Along 7, Day One: Silk and Bead Purse

Welcome to Mirrix’s 7th Weave-Along! 





The first step to weaving this fiber and bead purse is to decide how big you want your purse to be. 


My piece will be just big enough to fit an iPhone and a few credit cards. If you are making this piece for another phone or for something else, you may want to make your piece a different size. 


For example, if you plan to use this for a different sized phone, measure the width of the phone and add another inch to the width of the piece.


Then, measure the height of the phone, double that, add an inch and then add two and a half inches for the flap or whatever you decide you want your flap to be.


If your phone is 3 inches wide and 5 inches tall your piece would be 4 inches wide and 13.5 inches tall including the flap. 


When you warp there should be about 10 warps in one inch. (So if your piece is 4 inches wide, you’d warp 40 warps across.)


My piece is warped 40 warps wide using a ten-dent spring. If you are using a twelve dent spring, you will warp the same amount of warps across but when you have finished warping you will loosen your tension slightly, spread your spring out where your piece is (until there are ten spaces in an inch instead of twelve) and then put tension back on the loom. This will make the twelve-dent coil act like a ten-dent coil. 


My piece will be thirteen inches long (including the flap). To accommodate this, the loom is set at about 14 inches high (measure from the bottom of one beam to the top of the other).

Now that you’ve figured out how wide and long your piece will be, it’s time to begin warping!

Have you never warped before? Don’t worry, it’s easy!

For this project we will warp for tapestry with the shedding device. We have detailed warping  instructions here: http://www.mirrixlooms.com/images/warpinginstructions/tapestry.pdf. 

If you have any questions about how wide or long your piece should be or how to do any of these steps, just ask us! Email claudia@mirrixlooms.com or elena@mirrixlooms.com.

Book Giveaway!

Chris Franchetti Michaels, (you may know her as beadwork.about.com‘s fabulous guide) recently released a new jewelry making book “Teach Yourself VISUALLY More Jewelry Making”. Now, I know this blog is dedicated to weaving on a loom, but I’m sure many of you are multi-talented when it comes to your crafting skills and I wanted to offer one reader a FREE copy of Chris’ book! 


Not that I need new crafts to take up, but this book has some seriously tempting projects. From learning wire jewelry making techniques to bending and shaping metals to making your own rivets to using chain, to working with leather (that tempts me the most… do you think my husband would mind if I turned our bedroom into storage for craft supplies?) and clay and resin and… lots more. Twelve chapters are filled with easy-to-follow instructions to teach techniques as well as projects. Amazon will give you a little sneak peak (click “Click to Look Inside”). This book is the follow-up to Chris’ first book, which I haven’t read but I’m sure is fantastic, “Teach Yourself VISUALLY Jewelry Making and Beading“.
How to Enter:
Comment on this post anytime before midnight (PDT) on May 7th, 2012, Like us (Mirrix Looms) on Facebook and be sure to check out beadwork.about.com!
Giveaway Rules:
Entries must be received by midnight on May 7th, 2012
Spam will not be entered.
You must live in the continental United States to win
You must be at least 18 years old to enter







Oh, and you should probably check out Chris’s Affinity Bracelets she made on her Mirrix

Weave-Along 6: Crystal and Two-Cut Bead Affinity Bracelet

Necessary materials: 
Warp:  Hand painted silk is nice but anything strong and beautiful will do
Beads:  We are using lovely two cut size 11/0 iris beads (www.caravanbeads.net)
Crystals:  any size 4mm round crystals will do
Warp your loom with the hand painted silk warp (or something beautiful).  You will essentially have six warps, but we suggest you double the end warps so that you have more silk to create the rope or braid at the ends.  You will also be leaving a space twice as wide as the other spaces between the two middle warps.  This is to accommodate the crystal, which is twice as wide as the beads.
String up six of the two cut beads and put behind and between the warp threads.  Sew through the front of the warp making sure to capture all the beads
 For row two, you will string up two beads, one crystal, two beads.
I have skipped a row, but what I am doing here is what you need to do with your first crystal.  Pick up two beads.  Bring thread in front of piece after warp three.  Sew through crystal.  Bring thread behind warp before warp four.  String two beads.  Then sew back through the two beads, the crystal and the remaining two beads.
 Weave two rows of just beads.  Repeat two rows with one crystal.
  Weave until you’ve woven fifteen crystals  Remove from loom.
Trim loops on end of warp.
Tie overhand knots in the pairs of warps.  For fun, we slipped on two glazed clay beads.  You must have something fun around your house you can slip on before creating the rope.
We made just one rope by dividing the warps in half, twisting in the direction of twist already in the warp and then back twisting on itself to create one rope on each end.  Recently, we’ve figured out that C-clamps come in handy for this operation.  Just clamp the body of your piece to a table to keep it stable while making the ropes.
For the cl asp, make a small rope with the warp material and then wrap it twice around the over-lapped warp ends and pulling it tightly.  Tie a knot.
Your bracelet is now ready to wear or to gift!