Sometimes you have the urge to do something crazy and fun and break all the rules. That’s what this project was all about. I won’t call this piece a tapestry because it isn’t. It’s a weaving. A weird, colorful, fluffy weaving. After we dyed the yarn for this piece (more on that here), we got to warping the loom. Here’s Claudia warping so I could take pictures:
Here’s the loom all warped and on a stand. I don’t own my own Sitting/Standing Loom Stand so I haven’t used one very often, but weaving this piece with the stand made me want one.
And then, I began to weave. I used plain weave and soumak and Claudia spun some of the roving we were using to weave in between rows to give the piece a little more stability.
I wove this whole piece in a few days, mostly at night, sometimes with a glass of rosé.
Off the loom!
We finished it with ribbon sewed on the edges and then put a dowl through the ribbon on the top (which is actually the side) of the piece.
Here it is up on the wall!
Ready to start weaving your own wall-hangings? Click here to download our free Weaving is Easy Ebook to learn more!
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If you’ve ever tried to weave tapestry you know that tension is very important. You want your tension to be two things:
On looms without a tensioning system, getting tight and even tension can be difficult because you need to achieve both even and tight tension as you warp.
On a Mirrix, getting tight tension is very easy. Once you’ve warped, you can make your tension as tight as you want by simply tightening your wing-nuts after.
Getting even tension is also pretty simple on a Mirrix because you don’t have to worry about keeping your tension tight as you warp.
Here are three things to remember to help you get even tension:
1.) Don’t try to warp with tight tension. Because you can tighten your tension later, there’s no need to try to warp with tight tension. As you warp, just concentrate on keeping the tension even. You don’t want the warp to be baggy, but you don’t need it tight.
2.) Don’t drop you warp! The easiest way to keep your tension even is to not drop or let go of your warp thread as you warp. Don’t get up to go to the bathroom or to take the dog out in the middle of warping.
3.) Adjust your tension after warping if necessary. This doesn’t happen very often, but sometimes you warp your loom and realize your left warps are tighter than your right warps or there are some looser warps in the middle of the piece. If this happens, it might mean you didn’t follow tip number two. But don’t worry, it can be fixed! Once you’ve finished warping, you can adjust the evenness of your tension by pulling on individual warp threads to even out the slack.
Still dealing with a tapestry loom that makes it difficult to get even tension? Click here to get a free loom recommendation!
It seems like forever ago that Elena and I went to Colorado to create the “Bead & Tapestry Cuff Bracelet” class. It was both difficult and exciting. The Craftsy people were wonderful and held my hand very well. Elena sat behind the camera giving me silent directions if I got off course. She knew the drill. She knew what needed to be said or not said so it was essential to have her there.
The Craftsy crew, from camera people to producers to to editors make-up people, were rather magical. It was a blur of three days of hard work. The results were excellent. The Craftsy editors took 22 hours of filming and turned it into a 6 hour class.
These are the lessons you will find in the class (besides loom set up and discussions about looms in general):
Silk & Bead Affinity Bracelet
Gold Thread & Bead Affinity Bracelet
No Warp Ends Bracelet (there are two: the one below and one with just Delica Beads in a simple design for which I cannot find a photo!)
Tapestry Cuff Bracelet (both simple and complex)
Where can you find this class? Here: craftsy.com/beadcuffs
Where can you get the kits? Here you go, everything you need: http://blog.mirrixlooms.com/product-category/craftsy/