Are you ready for a loom upgrade? For THREE days only (Thursday July 9th, Friday July 10th and Saturday July 11th) we are offering a brand new basic tapestry loom package for up to $50 off.
With a loom, heddles, some gorgeous hand-painted silk and a tapestry needle all you need is some warp (and maybe some more weft, we love using the silk for shimmery, colorful accents) and you are all ready to get started weaving.
These are big savings you definitely won’t see again for a long time!
This package includes:
-A 12″ Little Guy, 16″ Big Sister or 22″ Zach Loom
-6 Skeins of Hand-Painted Silk
-A 5″ Tapestry Needle
-A Roll of 100 Texsolv Heddles
Click here to get the package and save while you can!
Please take the time to read the terms and conditions below
Terms & Conditions:
Cannot be combined with any other offers
Only one loom package per customer
Mirrix Looms reserves the right to deny, or change any discount
Expires at midnight on July 11th, 2015
Only valid at mirrixlooms.com
This deal is only valid for purchases of this loom package on July 9th, 10th and 11th, 2015. These discounts CANNOT be applied to orders made previously.
Looms purchased as part of this deal will begin shipping on July 14th and cannot be expedited
This blog post is part of a series on the basics of weaving tapestry
Tapestry is by definition weft-faced weaving. This means that you can see the weft (the fiber that you weave back and forth) and cannot see the warp (the fiber you wrap around your loom). To achieve this, a weaver must figure out the correct combination of warp spacing (this is called “sett”), warp size and weft size.
On a Mirrix, warp spacing is determined by the warp coil (or spring) at the top of the loom. We identify different warp coils by how many dents (the spaces between the coils) are in an inch. This is called DPI (dents per inch) or EPI (ends per inch). Choosing the correct warp coil for the warp and weft you are using is very important when planning your tapestry.
Generally speaking, if you are using a finer weft you will want to use a warp coil with more dents per inch and if you are a using a thicker weft, you will want to use a warp coil with fewer dents per inch or even warp every other dent (For example, an 18 dent warp coil every other dent is equal to a 9 dent warp coil.)
How do you determine the correct sett?
Unfortunately, there is not a simple trick for figuring out your warp spacing. Every weft and warp combination is different and it might take some time to begin to get a sense of what warp coil should be used each time you weave a new piece.
A good way to determine if your sett is correct is to put your weft in between your warp threads vertically when your loom is warped. If your weft threads are much thicker than the space between the two warp threads, then your weft is probably too thick and if your weft threads are much thinner than you know your weft is too thin.
One way to choose your warp sett is to look at what sett others have used with the same warp and weft you are using. Check out some of our free projects and weave-alongs and look at the warp and weft and sett that we are using. Imitation is a good way to get started!
We also have a handy crowd-sourced list of different tapestry yarns people have used and the EPI/DPI they set their loom at.
Following are some examples of what correct and incorrect warp setts look like.
Here is some yarn I have woven on warp with a sett that is too close together. You can see how the warp shows.
Below I’ve woven the same weft on the same warp, but this time I wove through two warp threads at a time instead of one (so instead of 8 EPI I wove it at 4 EPI). This is the correct warp sett for this yarn.
Here is a thinner yarn on the same warp. This first picture is the yarn in the correct warp sett.
Below is the same yarn woven over two warp threads at a time (4 EPI instead of 8 EPI). This doesn’t look terrible, but the final product will be flimsy, it will take a long time to weave (because the yarn will get packed down a lot) and you won’t be able to get the kind of detail that you typically want to get from a thinner yarn.
Remember to consider your warp sett when planning your tapestry, and get a loom where you have the option to set your warp spacing!
Don’t have a Mirrix yet? Click here to get a free loom recommendation!
Sometimes you just want to weave slowly, picking warp threads with a needle as you go. For very thin pieces, this works just fine. It can be very meditative.
But most of the time, when weaving tapestry, picking each warp as you go can get tedious and very time consuming, especially with wider pieces. For this reason, even the very first Mirrix Loom was designed with a shedding device. The word “shedding device” is derived from the word “shed” which means the space between lowered and raised warps. It raises the threads for you so rather than have to weave under and over warp threads with a needle, you can simply engage the shedding device and raise every other thread all at once. The shedding device is attached to the warp threads with heddles, which wrap around the individual warp threads and are hooked onto one of the two bars on the shedding device.
So you want to weave tapestry and you’re trying to decide on a loom. Congratulations! You’re going to love the journey you are about to embark on. Tapestry, as we say, is like painting with fiber and provides endless creative opportunities.
As with most art forms, your success weaving depends partly on the tools and materials you use.
Here we will discuss the differences between a simple frame loom and a Mirrix for weaving tapestry.