Bead Weaving, Weaving
Learn How to Weave Beads From a 7-Year-Old!
When it comes to the arts, kids are often markedly good teachers. There is a certain innocence and fearlessness children possess that allows them to be creative and unbound to expectation. I have seen this again and again watching young people weave both tapestry and beads, but I’m still pleasantly surprised each time a child reminds me of the innocent glee weaving can bring to someone.
Recently Dani Dias shared a video with us of her daughter, Ava, teaching bead weaving on her 5″ Mini Mirrix Loreli Loom. Dani and Ava have graciously allowed us to share this video with all of you.
Bead Weaving, Tapestry Weaving, Weaving
What’s a Warp Coil?
When you’re weaving beads or tapestry, how your warp threads (the threads that go around the loom) are spaced is very important. That spacing will allow you to weave the size beads you want (imagine trying to stick 8/0 beads into warp threads spaced for 11/0 beads) or the yarn you want (different thicknesses of warp -and weft- need different warp spacing.)
On some looms, you have a fixed sett. There are grooves or pegs set a certain distance apart at the top (or top and bottom) of the loom. You can get more than one sett from these fixed sett systems because you can warp every other dent (a dent is a space -between the grooves, pegs, spring -we’ll get to that soon, etc.) or every two dents. So if your loom had a fixed sett of 12 DPI, you could also warp at 6 DPI or 3 DPI.
Other looms don’t have any way to fix your sett, so you have to make sure your warps are spaced correctly and STAY spaced correctly.
On a Mirrix, we know it is important for both bead and tapestry weaving to be able to easily weave at a variety of setts. Sometimes you’re weaving with fine silk and sometimes you’re weaving with chunky wool. Today you might want to weave with 11/0 Delicas and tomorrow you could be weaving with 8/0 beads. That’s where warp coils come in. They are springs (we use the terms warp coils and springs interchangeably) that you put at the top of your loom (or the bottom if you have a Bottom Spring Kit) that allow for different setts. Any Mirrix with a shedding device comes with four of these warp coils at 8, 12, 14 and 18 dents. We also have 10, 20 and 22 dent coils available. These coils will allow you to weave at pretty much any sett. The 8 dent coil can give you 4 or 8 DPI. The 12, 6 or 12. The 14, 7 or 14. Etc.
For more on why warp spacing matters for tapestry, check out this blog post.
For a bead weaving warp coil cheat sheet (and a little more on warp spacing for bead weaving) click here.
Bead Weaving, Bead/Fiber Combination, Tapestry Weaving, Weaving
What Can Be Made on a Mirrix Loom?
Mirrix Looms are versatile frame looms meant for tapestry and bead weaving; but with their great tension, 8 different available sizes and a myraid of available accessories, you can weave more than just jewelry and wall-hangings on a Mirrix!
What project can you make on a Mirrix Loom? See our list below and tell what we missed in the comments!
Woven Tapestries
Wall-Hangings
Pillows
Table Runners
Purses/Pouches/Cases
Rugs
Wool Rugs
Roving Rugs
Knotted Rugs
Rag Rugs
Beaded Jewelry
Bracelets
Necklaces
Amulets
Large Beaded Pieces
Beaded Wall-Hangings
Beaded Purses
Guitar Straps
Belts
Lanyards
Other Weaving
Bead/Fiber Combination
Mixed Media Weaving
Wire Weaving
Bead Weaving, Bead/Fiber Combination, FAQ, Policies, Tapestry Weaving, Weaving
What Do You Need to Begin Weaving?
One question we get a lot here at Mirrix is, “What do I need to begin weaving?”
This depends, of course, but you may be surprised at how little you need to get started!
For Tapestry Weaving:
-A Loom and. We recommend one with a shedding device like the 16″ Big Sister Loom.
-Heddles. You only need these if you are using the shedding device. You can either purchase pre-made ones, or make your own. We have instructions on this page.
-Warp. Warp can come in a variety of different fibers including cotton, linen or wool. Your warp is going to be under extreme tension and therefore has to be very strong. You should not be able to easily break it just using your hands.
-A Tapestry Beater. Tapestry beaters are available in wood, metal or a combination of the two. We sell two wooden versions. This weighted one is a great choice. You can also use a simple fork.
-Weft. The most important quality in a tapestry yarn (which is the weft) is beauty. It doesn’t have to be warm or soft or have any of the yarn qualities you would want for making a sweater. It just has to be beautiful and available in whatever colors you want. If you were to spin your own tapestry yarn you would use the fleece from a sheep with long, lustrous locks. You would not use the fiber from something like a Marino Sheep which has short fuzzy fleece. Short fuzzy fleece is warm, but it does not make for pretty tapestry yarn.
Optional:
–Tapestry bobbins
–A tapestry needle (especially if you are not using the shedding device)
You’ll also want some basic supplies like a good pair of scissors and a measuring tape.
Check out our tapestry basics guide for more on weaving tapestry!
For Bead Weaving:
-A Loom. The 8″ Lani Loom is a very popular size.
-Heddles. You only need these if you are using the shedding device. You can either purchase pre-made ones, or make your own. We have instructions on this page.
-Beading Thread. Here at Mirrix Loom we love C-Lon size D beading thread because it is specifically designed for use with beads. It doesn’t fray easily, it’s strong and it comes in many beautiful colors. Other people use Fireline. Any beading thread you have that is strong might work.
-Beads. Delicas, Tohos… almost any bead works!
-A Beading Needle. A strong beading needle like a Tulip Bead Weaving Needle is perfect for weaving beads on a loom.
You’ll also want some basic supplies like a good pair of scissors and a measuring tape.
Check out our bead weaving basics guide for more on weaving beads!
Bead Weaving
Weaving a Crystal and Bead Bracelet Using the Shedding Device
A while back I wove a crystal and bead bracelet on a Lani Loom not using the shedding device. I loved the resulting piece but I have to admit I did not enjoy weaving it. Which was a problem because in theory I wanted to weave a lot of them. In practice, not so much. Why? You might ask. And by gosh, I am going to answer.
The crystals I was using were 2 mm. The beads were 11/0 Delicas. I alternated the beads with one row being: bead, crystal, bead, etc. and the next starting with a crystal, bead, crystal, etc. The holes for the crystals and beads were at a different level so when I strung up a crystal, a bead, a crystal, etc. and put it behind and in between the warp in order to sew through the beads on top, the sewing through part was not much fun. The needle is straight and the holes for the crystals and beads are not straight. So it was this battle to push the needle through the beads and crystals.
Then the light bulb! And this is what it said: Use the shedding device (click here if you’re not sure what that is). So I did. And weaving was heavenly and I can and will make a ton more!
Here she is on the loom. That section took me minutes to weave. The part that takes time is stringing the beads. Weaving is as easy as can be. Just line the row of beads behind and in between the raised warps and pull it down until it’s snug agains the row below. Then change the shed right away so you are ready to go with your next row.
Here is a little close up of my piece. You will note that the piece is 12 beads across (13 warps) using the 18 dent coil. I will be finishing it with one of our gorgeous beadslide clasps (the one inch version) just in case you want to weave this piece, which I am certain you will want to do!
There she off the loom, wearing her clasp and with one row of picot beading started on the side
The picot edging happens when you exit through a side bead, pick up three (in this case 15/0 seed beads) and then sew through the next bead up. It makes a very nice edging and kind of pulls the whole piece together.
And there she is in all her finished glory. The whole thing from setting up to finishing took a little North of two and a half hours. The moral of the story is: some things are just done woven best with a shedding device. And since most bead looms do not have any kind of shedding device, you are just going to have to use a Mirrix Loom to weave this one! Or ten of them.
Need a Mirrix Loom to make a bracelet like this? Click here to get a free loom recommendation!
Bead Weaving
Turning Your Photos into Art (plus a free bead pattern and a sale)
This sale/giveaway has ended
There is something so satisfying about taking a beautiful photo and then turning it into another medium such as bead weaving or tapestry.
For tapestry, you would blow up the photo into a cartoon (a full size rendering of the photo) and put it behind the warps, most likely keeping a copy of the photo in sight at the front of the loom. You can do this for bead weaving as well, which I know this because I come from a tapestry background. At first, I would just copy my tapestry weaving methods and apply them to beads. But that was before I discovered bead software that allows you to render a photo into a bead graph. I waded through a couple of bead pattern creation programs before I discovered that the best software for turning photos into bead graphs is BeadCreator Pro. I like other bead programs for other reasons, but PCP seems to be more sophisticated than other bead software in allowing you to tweak the colors of a photograph-turned-bead pattern until you come up with a final product that not only looks like the photo but that does not have five zillion different bead colors. I draw the line at 25 colors, but usually opt for fewer.
These are examples of some of the bead patterns I’ve created with BCP using my photographs:
You can download the pattern in the right bottom corner for free here.
Through next Thursday (March 2nd), we are putting downloads of BeadCreator Pro. 6 software on sale. Use code makeart at checkout for 25% off!
Terms & Restrictions: Valid on BeadCreator Pro. 6 software (downloads) from mirrixlooms.com. Cannot be combined with other offers or discounts.
Deal expires at midnight Pacific Time on 3/2/2017. Only valid at mirrixlooms.com. Click here to learn how to enter coupon codes on our website.
Bead Weaving, Bead/Fiber Combination, Tapestry Weaving, Weaving
The Age-Old Question: Is Warping Easy?
Today I got an email with a question I get every day and still haven’t quite figured out how to answer: Are Mirrix Looms easy to warp?
The short answer is yes. The basic concept of warping is very simple: you wrap warp around the loom. There are different ways to warp with varying degrees of difficulty depending on if you are using the shedding device, want continuous warping, are using an add-on kit like the No Warp-Ends Kit or Extra Warping Bar Kit, are using our Easy Warp Method, etc.
The long answer is:
1.) Warping ease is in the mind of the beholder and depends on experience. Once anyone has some practice warping it becomes second nature. You just have to develop the motions and relax enough to get even tension. It is much easier to get even tension on a Mirrix because of the continuous warp method.2.) The ease of warping depends a lot on what you’re warping for. Want to warp for a bead piece at 18 EPI (meaning your warp threads are very close together) with the shedding device woven the width of a
2.) The ease of warping depends a lot on what you’re warping for. Want to warp for a bead piece at 18 EPI (meaning your warp threads are very close together) with the shedding device woven the width of a 38″ Loom? You’ll want practice before tackling that. We suggest, even if you have big dreams of large pieces, if you’ve never warped the Mirrix, try something little so you can figure out what mistakes there are to make and how to fix them. That way, when you move on to larger pieces you’ll be able to troubleshoot better if you do make a mistake.
3.) Warping takes patience. There is nothing difficult about the process, but you have to pay attention so you don’t make mistakes. The reason warping a wider piece is more difficult is simply because there are more places to make mistakes. And yes we all make mistakes. We still make mistakes when we are not paying full attention. And that’s the thing about life though. Mistakes are part of life, part of learning. That doesn’t take away from the fact that making them is such a bore!
4.) If you’re a beginner and want to weave but are afraid that warping will be too difficult, fear not: There are easy options to get you started. The easiest? Our new “Easy Warp” method. This method simply has you wrap your warp in a circle around the loom. You can even use a shedding device. The disadvantage is only that you won’t have continuous warping (which allows you to weave a piece longer than the length of your loom), so the pieces you weave using this method will be shorter.
Here are some different warping methods ranked by difficulty:
Easiest
Warping using the “Easy Warp” Method
If you are at all tentative about warping, we suggest going on the bunny slope a couple of times. Just to be really clear, there is no warping method for any other loom on earth that is easier than warping with the “Easy Warp” Method. Once you’ve sailed down the bunny slope with nary a hitch, you will be ready to advance to more difficult methods of warping.
Warping for bead or tapestry weaving without the shedding device using the standard Mirrix warping method
Warping without the shedding device is the next easiest. You should definitely look at our instructional videos and ebooks first to get a sense of the pattern and to be forewarned of possible mistakes. For example, crossing your warp through the body of the loom instead of making sure the warp is always going around the loom is a mistake that frequently crops up for newbies. But it’s a mistake you will only make a few times once you’ve figured out the pattern. And this mistake is a show stopper because once you’ve crossed through the loom you cannot properly advance your weaving. So stay out of the proverbial loom gutter and keep your ball of warp rolling around the outside of the loom only. And keep that tension even. You will tighten it when you are done warping.
Warping with the No Warp-Ends Kit
The No Warp-Ends Kit is probably a tie with the method above in terms of difficulty. But that really depends on how your mind works! This method requires that you suspend two bars in front of the loom that are adorned with S-hooks. You tie onto the first s-hook and then loop around the one on the other bar, going back and forth until you are sufficiently warped. Tie off the final end and then apply tension.
Warping using the Extra Warping Bar Kit
Warping with the extra warping bar allows you to put on a much shorter warp (so as not to waste it) and it also eliminates the warp on the back of the loom so that if you are weaving wide pieces without the shedding device you will have ample room to get your hand in there to hold the beads in place while sewing through them. Again, depending on how your mind works, this method might actually be the easiest of all.
Warping for tapestry with the shedding device
Warping for tapestry with the shedding device adds only one thing to the standard Mirrix warping method: once the loom is warped, you add the shedding device. This is actually very easy to do. But it’s also fairly easy to mess up. If you cross your heddles or miss putting a heddle on a warp thread, you will find yourself with an unworkable situation. You will have to hunt down and fix the recalcitrant heddle before you can move forward. And sometimes this does require removing a bunch of heddles to find the naughty one. Ah but once the bad heddle is put in his place, all will be well with the world and your weaving.
Warping for bead weaving with the shedding device
The most difficult warping situation for the Mirrix is for bead weaving using the shedding device. The time made up for with the ease of weaving certainly makes up for this. But there are a few things that can go wrong. First of all, you are putting on twice as many warp threads (two in each dent of the spring) and then all those threads are going to need to be paired with heddles. So it’s not so much difficulty as just paying close attention and making sure everything goes in its proper place. But the one thing you will notice is that getting even tension is so much easier on the Mirrix than any other loom we know of. And tension, even tension, is everything!
Hardest
The lesson? You can warp! If you’re nervous about warping, start slow. Once you understand the concept, you’ll have no problem moving on to slightly more complex warping methods. Pretty soon, warping will be second nature!
Want to learn more about Mirrix Looms? Click here to download our free “Weaving is Easy” Ebook
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Bead Weaving
Finishing beadwork with a beautiful gold clasp
Figuring out how to finish a beaded jewelry piece is something you need to contemplate even before you’ve warped your loom. There are a variety of options, from using the No Warp-Ends Kit to weaving in a fiber header and footer to incorporating the warp threads into the finishing.
Recently I discovered this really nice clasp that makes finishing a beaded bracelet as easy as tying knots and slipping on the clasp!
When using this clasp you can warp your loom in the regular way (or the “Easy Warp” way) where there will be warp ends to finish. Because this clasp just slips over the last row of beads, all you have to do it tie off the warp ends, slip on the clasp, fold in the ends and you are done. This take moments to accomplish and your piece will look perfectly finished.
The clasp I am using here is one inch wide. It also comes in a 1/2 inch wide version. The spring I used on this piece is 14 dents per inch which is the correct spring for the size 11/0 seed beads I choose. We put on 13 warps but 14 warps will also work. You just don’t want your beaded piece to be wider than the clasp.
Remove your piece from the loom when it is approximately an inch wider than your wrist. Tie overhand knots with pairs of warp threads. Trim to about a third of an inch.
Separate the two pieces of the clasp and slide one end over the last row of beads at one end of your piece. 
It’s that simple! Next, bend the two tabs at either end to secure the clasp in place.
And there you have it: a beautifully finished beaded bracelet.
Click here to pre-order one of these great clasps!
Don’t have a loom yet? Click below to download our free Get Started Guide to learn more!
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Bead Weaving, Bead/Fiber Combination, Tapestry Weaving, Weaving
Mirrix Looms: Looms To Grow With
When you first decide to take on something new, be it a sport or craft or hobby, you have to decide early on how much money you want to invest in your new commitment.
When I started doing yoga a few years ago I was using a paper-thin mat I found in my closet. After about a week of sore knees I realized if I was going to spend $100 a month on classes, I might as well get a nice mat. I ended up getting a fairly high-end mat that is still in great condition many hundreds of uses later. Looking back, choosing a good mat once I’d committed to my practice instead of investing a little less in a not-so-good one was a great choice.
If I were a beginner looking for a tapestry or bead loom, I would take a similar approach to loom buying.
For Tapestry
Before investing in a Mirrix for tapestry, you want to make sure that you like tapestry. Instead of going out and buying a mediocre loom, we suggest either making your own basic tapestry frame, using a rigid heddle loom if you happen to already own one for tapestry or borrowing a friend’s loom. Note that a basic frame and a rigid heddle loom are not going to be ideal for tapestry, but they will give you an idea of whether you want to pursue tapestry weaving. Check out this blog post to learn how to make a basic frame loom for tapestry.
Once you’ve decided that you want to learn how to weave tapestry, it’s time to choose a loom. The great thing about Mirrix Looms is that they will last you from being a beginner to becoming an expert. Plus, there are a few ways to save money as a beginner that will allow you to add-on as you grow.
For example:
As a beginner: Purchase a 12″ Little Guy Loom without the shedding device. With some warp, weft and a simple fork you can begin your tapestry weaving journey! This loom is only $205, not much more than you’ll pay for an unexceptional loom that you’ll eventually want to trade for a Mirrix anyway.
A little later: Add on a shedding device and some extra warp coils. Purchase some heddles for the shedding device. Now you’re taking tapestry weaving to the next level!
As your progress: Add a Sitting/Standing Loom Stand and a Spencer Power Treadle to your collection, and you’ve turned your Mirrix into a mini floor loom!
For Bead Weaving
Before investing in a Mirrix for bead weaving, you want to make sure that you like weaving beads. Instead of going out and buying a mediocre loom, we suggest trying out a very simple bead loom. We bet someone you know has one lying around! Now, you won’t be able to do much on this loom besides weave a bracelet, and the experience might be a little frustrating (the tension on those little looms will drive you nuts), but it will give you a good idea if you want to move on to bigger and better thing!
Once you’ve decided that you want to experiment more with weaving beads, it’s time to choose a loom. The great thing about Mirrix Looms is that they will last you from being a beginner to becoming an expert. Plus, there are a few ways to save money as a beginner that will allow you to add-on as you grow.
For example:
As a beginner: Get the “Easy Warp” Sam Loom with the bead weaving package. Get your hands on good pair of scissors and a measuring tape and you’re ready to get started! This loom is super easy to warp and use and will
A little later: Get a warping bar and a set of wooden clips to warp your loom so you can advance your weaving (giving you more weaving length) plus some extra springs to accommodate different bead sizes and a Bottom Spring Kit to help organize your warp threads when weaving wider pieces. Maybe you want to try a No Warp-Ends Kit as well, to make fast pieces that are easy to finish!
As your progress: Purchase a shedding device and a spring bar to try weaving beads with a shedding device. If you’re interested in belts or longer pieces, add on some loom extenders, too!
Bead Weaving
Warping for Bead Weaving the “Easy Warp” Way!
If you have a Mirrix Loom that you use for bead weaving but wish warping was easier, or if you want to start weaving on a Mirrix Loom but are intimated by warping, then you’re going to love warping for bead weaving the “Easy Warp” way!
This is a technique that we came up for tapestry weaving, but it works just as well for weaving beads!
With this method, all you do is tie your warp thread onto the brass screw in the upper left-hand corner of your loom. Then, you wrap your warp around your loom, placing your warp in dents in the spring as you go. When you’re finished, just tie off on the other screw. It really is that easy and ANY Mirrix Loom can be warped this way!
The only disadvantage to this method over the regular warping method is that you can’t advance your weaving. That means your piece length is restricted by the height of your loom. The good news? You can then weave another piece on the back!
Click here to download “Easy Warp” Warping Instructions. These instructions are for tapestry (we will get bead-specific ones up soon) but all you need to change when warping for bead weaving is to stop at page 6 and use beading thread for warp!
Enjoy!